The bottom leaves on some plants begin yellowing and falling off during this stage while other plants begin losing leaves during Week 4-6 of the flowering phase. Nevertheless, you still need to be vigilant so that you don’t mistake a problem for normal leaf loss. If all is as it should be, your plants should stay full and green with just a few bottom leaves discoloring or possibly falling off.
Nutrient deficiencies are slightly less detrimental as too many nutrients (because it’s easier to introduce nutrients to the plant tissue than remove nutrients, and there are some that cannot be removed that are called ‘immobile nutrients’), but you should still keep track of what you feed your plants and adjust as needed as soon as you determine a problem. Your plants can still recover to some extent, but it’s still much better not to have any problems to fix in the first place.
Use this time to observe your plants carefully for any signs of problems. The easiest signs are the symptoms visible on the leaves. For example, nutrient toxicity or “nute burn” (excess nutrients that cause something that looks like a burn on the leaves) causes the tips of your leaves to become brown or yellow. If you don’t reduce the amount of nutrients provided, this burn will spread to other parts of the leaves, and the plant may be severely affected. If untreated, your plant will no longer be able to manufacture its own food.
Related: The fastest Way To Grow Dry Weed
If you are going to try your hand at training your plants, now is the time. Low stress training (LST) involves bending the stems of the branches gently so that you have a flat canopy at the top. This flat canopy is critical to ensure even distribution of light to all parts of the plant. For outdoor grows this training is generally unnecessary as the sun will naturally pass across most of the plant’s surface throughout the day. Sections without direct access to light will not produce mature buds and are often removed so the plant can put more energy into the parts that do receive plenty of light.
You want to maintain as many leaves as necessary to create a full canopy because if you remove too many after this point, your plant may not have enough foliage to absorb enough light to maximize yields. However, if you have plenty of healthy leaves, there is a “reserve” of leaves that will help the plant continue to thrive.
Week 1-3: The Flowering Stretch
The flowering stage is rewarding, and if you understand the process, you can gain more from it. As you can see, there are five distinct cannabis flowering stages, each with their own characteristics and requirements. Proper oversight of each of these stages puts you firmly on the path to harvesting the biggest and most potent buds that your cannabis strains are capable of yielding.
It is also common for some buds to become heavier than their branches can support during this phase of the cannabis flowering cycle. You may, therefore, need to support them so that they can stay upright. Use tools to prop your plants up – you can find them online or at many garden supply stores.
Female: Two pistils (the pistil contains the reproductive parts of a flower) will be growing on the buds (flowers grow above these leaves, one cluster on each side).
Cannabis Growth Timeline
The quality of your plant depends on your knowledge of the cannabis growth stages and the lifecycle of your plants.
1. Germinating: 1-7 days
2. Seedling: 2-3 weeks
3. Vegetative: 2-8 weeks
4. Pre-Flowering: 1-2 weeks
5. Flowering: 6-8 weeks
Male: Small green sacs full of pollen will be seen on the node areas.
3. Vegetative Growth
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