Q. It looks like hell, really. Now, I mentioned a few—arugula, radishes, mustards. I might just direct-sow them as a home gardener, in my raised beds, a short row of each one, frequently. But I think you do a lot of transplanting of starts sown in the greenhouse, and I do that with other things in my house, under grow lights. Do you sort of lump together certain Brassicas into groups of when you start them, and how you start them, and how long they’re indoors, and when they go out? Is each one distinctive, or are there some groups we could talk about?
A. Some people call it penny cress, because the seedpods look like little coins.
new at siskiyou: flowers, edibles & more
Q. So, in my climate, where our frost-free date is maybe more like mid-May, or third week of May, something like that, and I think I can put these cool-season guys, like you were just speaking about, cauliflower, broccoli, I think of putting them out maybe two, three weeks before the frost date. Maybe even a little earlier, maybe four weeks, I don’t know. I might start them for six weeks inside. That’s my sort of rough … So, it’s the same thing, but in a different part of the country. You have a greenhouse, natural light. I’m doing them under light in a warmer environment, as if it’s later, so to speak. But the formula works out either way, I think.
growing brassicas, with siskiyou’s don tipping
A. But from what I understand, and I’ve never really done side-by-side trials of how kale holds up over the heat of the summer versus collards, but from what I gather, collards are more of a heat-adapted way to have greens through the summer, whereas I know for us out here in Oregon, we can get up in the upper 90s or even over 100 come July or August, that that really brings aphids to our kale. And the plant seems to still grow and be fine with it, but it means a lot of washing when you want to prepare it as food. And collards tend to have less of the savoy, the wrinkly-ness of the leaves, that are the best places for the aphids to hide, on the flat leaf, so even if they do get some aphids, it’s easier to wash them off.
For an easy-to-read photo guide on Growing Camas Seed in Containers and Direct Sowing Outside, please check out this wonderful blog post below from our friends in Southern Oregon at Klamath Siskiyou Native Seeds on growing camas.
Sunlight: Great Camas (Camassia leichtlinii) will thrive in full sun to partial shade. Common Camas (Camassia quamash) favors full sun.
Camas is low-maintenance and one of the easiest native wildflowers to grow from seed. It can thrive in home pollinator gardens and container pots, roadside ditches, and natural areas with moist soil conditions during the winter – spring (and dry out by early summer), such as floodplains, wet meadows, and moist hillsides.
Camas Seed Harvest
Site Preparation: Camas seed grows best in bare soils that are free of weeds, grasses, and thatch. Competition from weeds / grasses after seed germination (Jan – Mar) will often prevent further establishment of camas seed.
Easily grown in outdoor containers or sown by hand onto bare ground, native Camas wildflowers flowers provide important pollinator habitat for a variety of species, including bumble bees, mason bees, butterflies, beetles, and ladybugs.
Maturation Time: Camas grown from seed will flower after 3 – 5 years.
Questions and Camas Email List
Seeds are harvested by volunteers in Mid-June and then distributed to interested community members for Fall seeding (October – November).
Thanks to a partnership of local private and public landowners, since 2019, GYWC volunteers have been able to harvest camas seeds from local wild populations in the Greater Yamhill Watershed to share with landowners and community members interested to grow camas for pollinator gardens and habitat restoration.