After 60 hours, the situation has changed in favor of unckracked seeds. A least, the one in the bottom-right corner seems to be the winner.
In my little experiment, I used 4 seeds of my OG Kush Auto that I’ve created myself. For some reason or other (because these feminized seeds were made by self-pollination maybe?), these beans are not very quick, especially if the room temperature is low, like it is now – 65-68 °F (18-20 °C). Let’s see if cracking makes any difference.
I’ve just placed 4 pot seeds between wet cotton disks.
After 36 hours, 2/2 of the cracked seeds and 1/2 of the uncracked (the one on the left) have shown tap roots.
Cracked vs Uncracked
I’ve come across a forum thread where people discuss buying a special cannabis seed cracker tool. I even watched a video where a weed grower uses it for seed cracking. You may google this gadget and spend a couple of dozens of dollars on it. But in my opinion there’s nothing special about a seed cracker. It’s just a simple contraption to hold a seed in place and gently apply pressure on it until the shell gives way with an audible crack. The cracking is done one seed at a time.
72 hours (3 days) have passed, and the last seed to crack is also the strongest. The seeds that were cracked have crooked and somehow yellowish tap roots.
Sometimes, marijuana seeds are too weak or too old to sprout quickly, so you need to use some techniques to help them germinate. In this post, I will describe just one method – cannabis seed cracking.
Cannabis Seed Cracker: Is It Really Necessary?
The idea is that cracking requires some energy from an embryo and not all of them are strong enough for that. If you do this job for them, you help your seeds save energy and germinate faster. Besides, the process of germination requires some water to penetrate the shell, and if the seeds are old or haven’t been stored properly, their shell can get too dry to let water inside. The downside to this method is that you can damage the embryo if you squeeze the seed too hard.
Just firmly hold the seed with your finger tips, with the ridge positioned vertically and the pointy end facing outward. Gently bite on it with your teeth until you hear it crack. Then use your favorite germination method.
We all have our own plans and ways, I am gonna try a light scoring with a razor blade or scalp, not deep just a light score along either the sharp edge, or maybe a couple over the rounded top and bottom edged on some of these bags seed see if it helps take in some more water and crack. Seeds have some stored energy which is there to help a tap and base leaves develop. but if they use it all breaking the shell they cannot then push to set the tap and break the earth/soil/medium. NO BUENO. ( Learn this farming ** not bud btw real farming ** since I was a child so over 20 years. )
Hum what else. I have bad luck on my last batch of 10 first time in years, my guess the towels were not wet enough and I may have had toxins on my fingers or the shells where to hard.
whatever technech you use try not to damage the inside embrio of seed
after i wait for like seven days i get into scarcification of seeds i feel like ther is nutin to lose and sumtin to gain
most tmes it improves rate of germ
i normally split at seam wit razor crack off pieces of shell and sandpaper sumtimes i try all kinds of tricks i might try plyers next time
Actually what you’ve done is re-discovered an old time technique. As someone else said too, scuffing seeds w/sandpaper also works well. The trick is to make it easier for moisture to get to the inside of the shell casing.
lmao!! Thanks, that made my morning!
Also the soaking in water can be good, it can do some harm if your tap water or whatever has toxins in it. I perfer like Arrowhead or other Mt. Spring water, they have no chem and good trace minerals.
Also the towel has to be wet, I mean soaking wet, not dripping but soaking, you do not want a puddle but moister, it helps it soak through the shell and makes it easier for the tap to absorb.
Here’s my Cracker:
Back in a few weeks when things get underway.
I have never been too keen on the idea of scuffing. Can’t remember now the member here who recommended using nail clippers to clip the very end of seeds to help with germination, but I liked it. And cracking even more so. I have more than a few packs of seeds in the vault that may not be viable. Here’s a short list off the top of my head without actually looking.
First, I want to thank Lester Beans for his thread and mention of cracking seeds, and that someone made a device to aid with this. And big thanks to Thailer for following up with details.
I ended up buying “The Seed Cracker” to hopefully improve the possibility of getting these older, questionably viable seeds to pop. I have other projects and fresher seeds I had wanted to be popping next but I really need to shelve those plans to work my way through these seeds to see if anything can be saved from them. I will pair them with similar lineages when possible. For example, when I try to pop Thai Lights I will follow that up with Thai Tanic if results are poor. So maybe I get two girls from TL and only one plant, a male, from TT. I will toss some pollen around. Likewise, Afghanica and Exile will pair as both are basically Afghan Skunks (Afghanica more so than Exile). And Bubble Gum with BOG Bubble, etc. If I have a high germ rate – 70% – or above on any pack, I will work with those first before popping a similar counterpart. My goal is to try to produce fresh seed stock from each, but depending on viability it may end up as crosses that attempt to stay within similar familial lines. I have two packs of G-13 IX and will start with it. Depending on the results, that may be it until July. If no luck with G-13 I will try to start the Thai crosses next. All this will be to gear up and get practiced before July, when I plan to try to pop 75 AS #1 beans. This will tie me up for some time as I work my way through these packs. I will use this thread to document the results.
Ancestral Skunk #1 (known to have around 10% viability)
Sweet and Sour Cindy
When I was looking around online to see pics of it I found this video of it in action:
I am going to get some GA3 to see if it improves chances. I plan to prep five beans of G-13 as shown in the video using GA3. The other five I will prep with a variation of Chimera’s method as well as soak after washing. I found the claim in the video of gravity aiding by taping the baggie to the cupboard door to be, questionable. Anyone think that makes sense? I suppose it couldn’t hurt and would also allow excess solution to drain away.